Step-by-Step Guide to Installing Running Boards
Running boards and side steps are one of the most straightforward upgrades you can add to a truck — and one of the most immediately useful. On a full-size or lifted truck, getting in and out without a step is hard on your knees, hard on your pants, and harder on passengers who aren't as tall or agile. Running boards solve that problem cleanly, protect the rocker panels from road debris and salt spray, and give the truck a more finished, intentional look along the lower body.
The good news: most running boards bolt directly to factory mounting points under the rocker panels. No drilling on most trucks, no cutting, no modifications that affect the warranty. With a basic socket set and a helper, the typical installation takes 45 minutes to an hour per side. This guide walks you through the whole process — what to prepare, how to install correctly, and what to do if something doesn't line up.
Before You Start: Fitment and Prep
Confirm fitment before unpacking
Running boards are designed for specific truck models and cab configurations. The same F-150 comes as a Regular Cab, SuperCab, or SuperCrew — and the bracket spacing is different for each. A set built for a SuperCrew won't mount correctly on a SuperCab, even if both fit an F-150. Before you open the box, confirm:
- Year, make, and model
- Cab configuration (Regular / Extended / Crew Cab)
- Whether the truck has any factory side steps or rocker moldings that affect bracket placement
If you haven't bought yet, browse our running boards and side steps and use the fitment filter to find the exact set for your truck.
Lay everything out and check the parts list
Before you start the install, unbox everything and lay it out on a clean surface. Cross-reference every component against the included parts list: boards, brackets (usually front, middle, and rear — sometimes labeled), all hardware bags, and any end caps or trim pieces. Discovering a missing bracket after you've already started is frustrating and avoidable. Check now.
Tools you'll need
- Socket set and ratchet (metric and imperial — check which bolts your kit uses)
- Torque wrench (strongly recommended — proper torque prevents rattles and hardware loosening over time)
- Trim panel removal tool or flat screwdriver wrapped in tape (for removing factory plugs)
- Painter's tape (to protect paint if the board needs to rest against the truck during positioning)
- Permanent marker or paint pen (for marking bracket positions if needed)
- A helper — holding a full-length running board while starting bolts is a two-person job
Clean the mounting area
Before the brackets go on, wipe down the underside of the rocker panel and the mounting points with a clean cloth. Road grime, undercoating overspray, and salt residue on the mounting surfaces prevent brackets from seating flush. Flush brackets mean a solid, rattle-free installation. Brackets sitting on debris mean the hardware works loose over time. Two minutes of cleaning here saves a lot of re-tightening later.
Step 1 — Locate and Access the Mounting Points
Crouch down and look under the rocker panel on one side of the truck. You're looking for factory-drilled holes or threaded mounting bosses — usually 3 to 4 points depending on the cab configuration. On most modern trucks, these holes are covered by plastic plugs that keep out dirt and moisture until you're ready to use them.
Use a trim panel removal tool or a flat screwdriver (tape the tip to avoid scratching) to pop the plugs out. Keep them — if you ever remove the running boards, you'll want to reinstall the plugs to protect the mounting holes.
Compare the hole positions to your bracket kit. The instructions will indicate which bracket goes at which position — front, middle, and rear brackets are often different shapes and are not interchangeable. Lay the brackets out in order before you start bolting so you're not guessing mid-install.
Step 2 — Attach the Brackets Loosely
Thread the bracket bolts into the mounting points by hand first, without using any tools. This confirms the threads are catching cleanly before you apply any torque. If a bolt doesn't thread in smoothly by hand, stop — forcing it will cross-thread the mounting point. Re-check the bracket orientation and try again.
Once all bolts are threading cleanly, use your socket and ratchet to snug them up — just enough that the bracket doesn't move freely, but not fully tightened. You want movement still available at this stage for alignment in the later steps. Repeat for every bracket on this side of the truck before moving on.
Important: brackets are often side-specific (driver vs. passenger) as well as position-specific (front vs. rear). Double-check you have the right bracket at each location before snugging. Some kits mark this clearly; others rely on you matching the bracket shape to the instruction diagram.
Step 3 — Mount the Running Board onto the Brackets
This is the step that really benefits from a helper. One person holds the board at roughly the right height and position while the other starts the board-to-bracket fasteners. Full-length running boards are heavier than they look and awkward to hold at the right height with one hand while reaching for hardware with the other.
Before lifting the board into position, lay a strip of painter's tape along the top edge of the board where it might contact the truck body. This protects the paint during positioning while you get the hardware started.
Lift the board into position and start every fastener by hand before tightening any of them. Starting all fasteners first ensures the holes are all aligned before you apply any clamping force. If you tighten one end before the other end's holes are lined up, you'll be fighting the board's position for the rest of the install.
Step 4 — Align and Level the Board
With all hardware hand-tight, step back and check the board's position from a few angles:
- Parallel to the rocker panel: the board should run parallel to the bottom of the door sill, with even spacing between the board and the body along its full length. Uneven spacing front-to-back means the board is cocked — loosen the brackets and adjust.
- Even gap at the front and rear: the board should be centred under the cab length-wise, with equal clearance at both ends.
- Step surface angle: the step surface should be approximately level or have a very slight outward tilt — enough that water drains away from the truck, not toward it. Most brackets allow a small angular adjustment at this stage.
- Height consistency: before you commit to the final position, go to the other side of the truck and look at how high the board is relative to the rocker panel. You want both sides at the same height. Measure from the ground to the top of the step surface on each side if you want to be precise.
Take the time to get this right. A board that's slightly crooked or at the wrong height is noticeable every time you use it, and adjusting it after final torque means loosening everything and starting the alignment process again.
Step 5 — Final Torque
Once the board is aligned and you're happy with the position, it's time to torque everything to spec. Follow this sequence:
- Bracket-to-truck bolts first: tighten the bolts that attach the brackets to the truck's mounting points. Work from front to back, and alternate sides on each bracket (left bolt, then right bolt) rather than fully tightening one side at a time. This seats the bracket evenly.
- Board-to-bracket bolts second: once the brackets are fully torqued to the truck, tighten the fasteners that attach the board to the brackets.
- Use a torque wrench: if your instructions specify a torque value, use it. If not, a general rule for M8 bolts into structural mounting points is 20–25 Nm — firm and secure without over-stressing the hardware. Over-torquing is one of the most common causes of rattles, as it can slightly deform bracket surfaces and create movement.
After torquing, remove the painter's tape and do a visual check: the board should sit flush, parallel, and solid. Push down on the centre of the board with both hands — there should be no flex or movement.
Step 6 — Repeat on the Other Side
Follow the same sequence on the passenger side. Before starting, use a tape measure to confirm the height off the ground matches what you achieved on the driver side — this makes the alignment faster because you have a target to match rather than eyeballing it.
Once both sides are torqued, step back and compare both boards from the front and rear of the truck. They should look symmetrical — same height, same distance from the body, same angle. Any visible asymmetry is worth correcting now rather than noticing it every time you park next to another truck.
Step 7 — Load Test and Final Check
Before you consider the job done, put your full weight on the board at several points along its length: the front end, the centre, and the rear end. A properly installed board should feel completely solid — no flex, no movement, no sound. Pay attention to:
- Any creak or click: usually means a bracket isn't fully seated or a bolt needs another quarter turn. Identify which bracket is making the noise and re-check its torque.
- Any visible flex at the bracket points: if the board deflects visibly when you stand on it near a bracket, the bracket-to-truck bolt may not be fully torqued, or the bracket may not be correctly seated on the mounting boss.
- The step surface grip: make sure the anti-slip step pad is fully seated and not lifting at any edge. In wet conditions — which is most of a Canadian winter — a secure grip surface matters for safety, not just appearance.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Board sits crooked or at an angle
Loosen the board-to-bracket fasteners (not the bracket-to-truck bolts), re-adjust the board's position, and re-torque. If the board is cocked front-to-back, the brackets may be slightly off — loosen them and re-align before final torque.
Rattle when driving over bumps
Almost always a torque issue. Identify which bracket the rattle comes from by pressing on different sections of the board while someone else listens. Re-torque the bracket-to-truck bolts at that location first, then the board-to-bracket bolts. If the rattle persists, check whether the bracket is making contact with anything it shouldn't be.
Bolts won't thread in smoothly
The bracket is either at the wrong mounting point, oriented incorrectly (front bracket installed in the rear position, or driver-side bracket on the passenger side), or the threads on the mounting boss are dirty. Remove, clean the threads with a wire brush, and try again. Never force a bolt that doesn't thread smoothly by hand.
Board doesn't line up with the door opening
This usually means the bracket spacing doesn't match your cab configuration. Confirm you ordered the right set for your specific cab style. A Regular Cab board installed on a Crew Cab (or vice versa) will be off-centre relative to the door opening.
After Installation: One Week Re-Check
Running board hardware can settle slightly after the first week of driving — vibration and load cycles work the bolts into their final seated position. After a week, go back and check the torque on each bracket-to-truck bolt and each board-to-bracket bolt. This one follow-up pass prevents the gradual loosening that causes rattles months down the road.
For winter maintenance of your running boards — keeping the step surface grippy, the mounting hardware corrosion-free, and the brackets tight through freeze-thaw cycles — see our seasonal maintenance checklist for your truck.
Shop Running Boards for Your Truck
Ready to add running boards to your truck? Browse our full selection fitted to the most popular Canadian trucks:
- Ford F-150 Running Boards
- Ford F-250 Running Boards
- Dodge RAM 1500 Running Boards
- Dodge RAM 2500 Running Boards
- Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Running Boards
- Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD Running Boards
- GMC Sierra 1500 Running Boards
- Toyota Tundra Running Boards
- Toyota Tacoma Running Boards
Or browse the full side steps and running boards collection to find the right fit for your cab configuration.
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